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Great Barr Street Bridge, Grand Union Canal, Digbeth, Birmingham, January 2013 |
Not long ago, I extolled the virtues of cycling for the urban explorer and paid particular
attention to the opportunities it offers to escape the obvious major routes and
to experience alternative urban perspectives from the flipside of a city. An obvious way to access such territory is to
drop down onto the towpaths of canal and waterways networks still threading
their way through many conurbations, only a few metres away from, (but generally
disregarded by), the users of congested roads.
As someone always conscious of his knees, I also appreciate the
relatively level terrain they provide.
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Grand Union Canal Bridge, Digbeth, Birmingham, January 2013 |
My friend Dave Weight and I made just such an expedition recently by shoving our bikes and
cameras in the back of the car and driving over to Birmingham to begin what I
hope may become an ongoing two-wheeled exploration of that city’s
waterways. We’ve both done plenty of
this sort of thing in Leicester over the years but Birmingham is famous for the
magnitude of its canal network, (insert standard clichéd comparison with
Venice, etc.), and offers a wealth of potential new experiences and an escape
from the over-familiar. My photos from
the day generally relate to a series of (by now), familiar themes within my
artwork and more general thinking about urban environments. To avoid an even more massive post, I’ll deal
with a couple of these specifically in separate bulletins. This one covers our ride more generally.
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Digbeth, Birmingham, August 2013 |
We’d already
strolled a short stretch of the Grand Union towpath during a photographic walk
around the Digbeth area, some months previously, when we also visited the
strange world beneath the massive ‘Spaghetti Junction’/Gravelly Hill Road Interchange on Birmingham’s northern perimeter.
Despite the obvious prevalence of elevated carriageways, canals are also
a feature of that complex maelstrom of competing routes. This trip joined those two favourite sites
via the Digbeth Branch and Fazeley & Birmingham cuts. It’s not a massive distance to cycle but took
us through a variety of urban landscapes and provided a wealth of sensory
stimuli and photographic subject matter.
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Digbeth, Birmingham, August 2013 |
Inevitably, I
collected various examples of signage, graffiti and other textual
fragments. Such details are of perpetual
fascination to me, both as formal elements and clues to possible meaning, and I
remain committed to their incorporation within my artwork. The same is true of the physical textures of
entropy, dilapidation, botched repair and sheer materiality so prevalent within
any city, and several examples of all this were obtained in Digbeth before and
after our progress along the towpath. The
area remains a rich visual hunting ground being caught in transition between
the dereliction of dead industry and the ad-hoc opportunism of more adaptable recent
enterprises. Sprinkled amongst these are
various style-conscious flowerings of the current ‘Creative Industries’,
(ugh!), but, thankfully, the gentrification of Digbeth still has some way to
go.
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Digbeth, Birmingham, August 2012 |
Our waterside
ride passed through several zones of the city, each with its own distinct atmosphere
and physical characteristics. I was
struck by the contrast between the clinical corporate presentation of certain
stretches and the less ordered, but visually far richer, industrial tenor of
others. It seems that the aesthetic
rewards of the information and service sectors remain largely virtual and
trapped within telecommunications infrastructure. Further evidence of the processes of
transformation was to be found close to Birmingham’s University/Millenium Point
quarter where another vast area, punctuated by huge yellow cranes, has been
cleared for regeneration. We detoured
here to examine the spectacular dereliction of an ornate Victorian factory but
even more poignant to me was the abandoned triangular house overlooking the
canal at the junction of Belmont Row and Pitt Street. Isolated on one corner of the construction
zone and prey to the attentions of taggers and vandals, it remains a poignant,
strangely dignified relic from a lost tract of the old city that is being
hastily reimagined. It also recalls an
era when people lived and worked in the same locales.
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Abandoned Canal Side House, Birmingham, August 2013 |
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Diversion & Dereliction: Birmingham, August 2013 |
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Regeneration: Birmingham, August 2013 |
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Derelict Factory: Birmingham, August 2013. Photo: David Weight |
We made another
brief detour further along our route to photograph three vast Victorian gas
storage gantries that have been painted claret and blue, in tribute, (I
assume), to Aston Villa FC. It’s interesting
how community pride in a football club has transmogrified into the imposition
of corporate sports branding onto the local environment on such a scale. The surrealism of such gestures strikes me as
pretty ludicrous but also strangely enjoyable.
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Aston, Birmingham, August 2013 |
On our journey, the
sense of changing mood and palpable atmosphere was particularly powerful at the
two points where the canal passed through tunnels and, reviewing my photos, I
wish I’d made some attempt to document this.
A particular sense of urban dread pertains to the unlit section beneath
the main railway lines running towards Moor Street and New Street stations. We passed through rapidly, having spotted a
couple of figures lurking in the shadows late, and emerged relieved that it was
merely the occasion of a cheeky toke.
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Junction Of Digbeth Branch And Birmingham & Fazeley Canals, Birmingham, August 2013 |
In such locations
I’m prompted to consider the importance of illumination, acoustics and even smell
in contributing to a particular mood or subjective response. It fuels a, so far largely unfulfilled,
desire to extend my practice into other media, (the movement from darkness
towards a distant light being an obvious subject better documented by video
than static imagery for instance), and emphasises the immersive, multi-sensual experiences
afforded the pedestrian or cyclist. The
advisability of carrying valuable electronic equipment into such locations may
remain open to question but I guess you can’t plunge into the urban underbelly
without also accepting some of its potential dangers.
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No Pressure: Birmingham, August 2013 |
For me, the most obvious
theme of our journey was that of different transport and communication routes,
of varying status and visibility, intersecting the built environment. Passing beneath roads, railway lines,
footbridges, gas pipelines, and even each other, waterways provide a delicious
opportunity to experience the city in reverse and to witness the ‘warts and
all’ realities of life and work unfolding behind facades habitually presented
to the street. They also represent a descent through time to an archaic industrial
transport network now rededicated to less utilitarian use. Whilst not strictly ‘unofficial’ as such, they
are obvious magnets for deviants, artists, dreamers and those wanting to snatch
a moment or slow the clock. Relieved of
trade and commerce, they now provide conduits for our thoughts and dreams to flow through the modern world unimpeded.
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Beneath Gravelly Hill Interchange, Birmingham, 2013 |
The reality of
all this is fully realized at Gravelly Hill, where all routes come together and
we paused for refreshment beneath the M6 motorway. Once again, we delighted in the effects of
reflected light on the vast concrete canopy above and the complex sonic
environment fluctuating on the underside of brutal modernity. Many of the photos I took there record the
rapid passage of vehicles and the relationship between concrete structures and
reflections in standing water. All
around us puddles were regularly punctuated by concentric ripples as drips
leached through the overhead concrete after earlier heavy rain. I also experimented with some scratch video
of the undulating canal-surface reflection of a brightly lit Sky TV
advertisement. This was partly in
tribute to the work of Christiane Baumgartner that impressed me at the ‘Metropolis: Reflections On The Modern City’ Exhibition in June and a reminder that it really is time I invested in a
dedicated video camera.
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Beneath Gravelly Hill Interchange, Birmingham, August 2013. Photo: David Weight |
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Beneath Gravelly Hill Interchange, Birmingham, August 2013 |
It was a great day, full of stimulating thoughts
and impressions, and something I hope we can repeat soon. Certainly, Brum has no shortage of canals for
us to explore.
hey, great post. very interesting and some stunning photos!
ReplyDeleteThanks, I'm glad you like it. It was a good ride but already seems quite a while ago now we're in the dark days of December. We did another one in October and there's a post about that too, if you're interested. There's certainly no shortage of canals to ride in Birmingham, so hopefully we'll do some more in 2014.
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