Richard III's Coffin Approaching Bow Bridge (With Car Park Beyond), West Leicester, March 2015 |
I’m not normally a big fan of official or royal pageantry, or for the Monarchy in general. However, it would have been bad manners not to watch Richard III’s remains being borne back into Leicester for the second time, last weekend, (the two events being separated by half a millennium). The cortege passed only a couple of hundred metres from my own front door, after all.
Bow Bridge (With Distant Dignitaries), West Leicester, March 2015 |
I’ve taken only a
passing interest in the whole palaver over Richard since the discovery of his
skeleton, famously - “beneath a Council car park in Leicester” [1.],
in 2012. I was genuinely intrigued at
the time, and wrote several posts on the subject of the University of Leicester's Grey Friars Project. Certainly, it was interesting to watch how what initially felt like a fairly low-profile local event, became a major international news story focused on my own back yard. However, much of the period since has been taken
up with dispiriting and unseemly disputes over whether Richard’s final resting
place should be in Leicester or York, (or, possibly, Westminster Abbey); also over
the disruption to the city centre caused by the redevelopment of the area
around the Cathedral and new Ricardian Visitor Centre [2.]; and even over the austere aesthetics of his
newly-designed tomb.
Onlookers And Car Park Signage, West Leicester, March 2015 |
Richard’s reputation
since his brief reign appears to have been almost entirely made up of sub
texts. Five hundred years later, - the major
sub text, (even as this much-maligned monarch was being rehabilitated [3.]), was the
question over which city would cash in on the tourism bonanza his name might
inspire. For better or worse, Leicester won that contest, (an unusual event in itself), and Mayor Soulsby’s vision of a
redeveloped historical portal to the city centre - with the new royal tomb at
its heart, is largely complete. Finally
then, it’s time to reinter the bones, - this time with rather more dignity than
Richard’s battered corpse enjoyed after his defeat at Bosworth Field; and to get
on with re-writing the history books all over again.
Bow Bridge, West Leicester, March 2015 |
Thus, I strolled
round the corner, in gorgeous early Spring sunshine and lengthening shadows, to
join a few thousand others who had gathered to watch Richard’s cortege pause at
Bow bridge to be officially welcomed back into the city. The bridge marks the historical boundary
between city and county, (as ever, I find myself just beyond the pale), and, as
the cast iron plaques on its Victorian masonry attest, holds a particular place
in the whole Richard III mythology.
Richard-Related Signage, West Leicester, March 2015 |
Interestingly, this location seems to attract commemorative plaques and information boards in ever-greater numbers, effectively becoming Information (or Misinformation) Central. A few feet away is the old, ornate carved legend, suggesting that the discredited king’s body may have been thrown into the water below; the Richard III Society’s small panel - seeking to redress that propaganda slight; and an even more recent information board, dedicated to the bridge and its role in the whole story as it’s now understood. To all this can be added the local street names, many of which, (including my own address), relate to Richard and the Battle of Bosworth.
Richard-Related Signage, West Leicester, March 2015 |
Naturally, this links in with my fascination with urban texts, and the multiple, layered meanings and historical interpretations that might be read into our surroundings, in a psychogeographical sense. In reality, my genuine historical interest in the period, is largely focused: firstly, - on the ways that historical evidence or ‘the facts’ (however sparse), are managed to reflect one current orthodoxy/vested interest or another; and secondly, - on how those stories we tell ourselves become monumentalised in our surroundings.
Photo Opps., Bow Bridge, West Leicester, March 2015 |
The Florists Will Have Done Well From All Of This. |
Car Park Signage, West Leicester, March 2015 |
Given the
location of King Richard’s rediscovery, it seemed ironic that his coffin should
be overlooked by a couple of other workaday car parks as it paused at Bow
Bridge. At least one of these is on the
site of a vanished factory building, - itself symbolising the radical shifts in
Leicester’s economy over recent decades.
In this context, the Council’s attempts to remodel the city as another hot
spot on the A-Level History trail [6.]
might make some sense. Intriguingly, another
claims to offer ‘Simple Intelligent Parking’, (that’ll be the day), whilst appealing for
more vacant land. In fact, if their
plans pay off, The Council may need all the parking spaces it can get. Disputes over that issue in the city is,
however, a whole other story.
Car Park Signage, West Leicester, March 2015 |
Perhaps
predictably, as the shadows lengthened and the crowds dispersed, all this yellow
parking signage, (and some relating to the logistics of King Richard’s
ceremonials), eventually became my main subject. T’was ever thus…
Richard-Related Signage, West Leicester, March 2015 |
[1.]: How often have I heard this slightly derisory
buzz-phrase repeated in the media over recent months? It does, of course, play directly to the
image, in the general public imagination, of Leicester as a singularly drab, uninspiring
kind of town
[2.]: Let’s face it – many of the denizens of
Leicester do love a good moan, given the opportunity.
[3.]: Of course, we can never really know the true nature of Richard's character, or how much validity there may or may not be in the accusations levelled at him. For what it's worth, my own hunch is that he was probably just another power junky with a sense of entitlement, living in a period of civil war, (pretty much like the rest of his class, in fact). He also appears to have been capable of quite enlightened rule during his short reign. A flawed but multi-faceted personality, perhaps, then, - rather than a pantomime villain.
[3.]: Of course, we can never really know the true nature of Richard's character, or how much validity there may or may not be in the accusations levelled at him. For what it's worth, my own hunch is that he was probably just another power junky with a sense of entitlement, living in a period of civil war, (pretty much like the rest of his class, in fact). He also appears to have been capable of quite enlightened rule during his short reign. A flawed but multi-faceted personality, perhaps, then, - rather than a pantomime villain.
[4.]: I’d be lying if I claimed the noble words
declaimed over the P.A. by the City Fathers will live long in my memory. I will, however, always associate the event
with scrambling amongst crackling undergrowth (and the occasional abandoned
rough sleeper’s camp), to gain a slightly elevated view from the adjacent
patches of wooded landscaping.
[5.]: Amongst the enthusiastic, the quietly
respectful, and the just plain curious, was the usual occasional drunk,
naysayer or proselytising eccentric. I’m
sure it was much the same the first time round, and to a greater extent. At least, this time, no one was trying to
further disfigure the corpse of a perceived villain.